Salzburg

After Berchtesgaden, On to Salzburg

Mozart

Greg

Eager to crowd as much into this beautiful day as we could, after my visit to the graveyard, we left Berchtesgaden to return north,  to cross the border back into Austria for Salzburg, about a 30 minute's drive.  My previous visits to Salzburg have been memorable in both summer and winter, though not so emotional as my Christmas visit to Berchtesgaden.  The fortress overlooking the town, the cathedral in the square, the fountains, the gardens, the monastery, and Mozart's birthplace -- all are lovely memories.  If you've seen the Julie Andrews' movie, The Sound of Music, then you've seen many of these beautiful sites.  So, this visit, in the early afternoon, required us to be selective;  after getting our bearings, we visited the square and took our time -- to thoroughly explore and enjoy the cathedral and its crypt.

Salzburg Cathedral

Part of the cathedral's crypt

Next, we found Mozart's birthplace, but it had just closed for the day, so we were satisfied with taking pictures of its exterior.

Mozart's birthplace

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I also had one other assignment, this from my son, Nathan, who has a wonderful memory of time spent, about 10 years ago, in a hotel bar with his two travelling buddies and the hotel owner, Hugo.  It seems that once Hugo learned that Nathan and his friends were from West Virginia, out came his CD of John Denver, and "Almost Heaven" played again and again. Hugo kept his bar open and visited through the night with the boys, finally closing at 5 am.

Hugo and his cows

So my instructions were to go to the address Nathan provided and have my picture taken with Hugo.  Once more, my family cooperated, and off we went, on foot, to cross the river and follow the streets to Hotel Stadtkrug.  When I approached the gentleman behind the reception desk  and asked if he were Hugo, he looked up, flashed his eyes, chuckled and said "No, he's not in today. But he's my friend (and I would guess, employer).  How might I help you?"  First, I had to overcome my surprise at looking into the face of Rodney Dangerfield's twin, before I was able to tell him about my son's visit many years ago.  "Ah, I love West Virginia!  Almost Heaven!"  came his reply, as he jumped to his feet, came around the reception counter, and took me to a photograph of Hugo on the wall, along with photos of his cows.  "Hugo is at his farm, tending his cows!"  Rodney exclaimed.  We had a hug, took some pictures, and listened to his account of Spooky Mary as he showed me her large painting hanging near the bar.  Apparently, the 18th century Empress Maria Theresa has been known to haunt the hotel--at least that was Rodney's story.


The next day, Thursday, we rented bicycles from the resort and set off to explore an area not terribly far away.  But the terrain's hills got the better of me, I dragged behind, and kept a watchful eye on the darkening skies.  Finally, after one hill too many, I called out to the rest that I was heading back.  Greg, the dutiful husband, went with me (if truth be told, I think he was feeling the hill-climbing almost as much as I).  So back we went toward Grundlsee and the flat paths along its shore.  We enjoyed the gardens, and gazebo at the water's edge, looked up, and saw Chris and Tisha, pedalling toward us.  Seems the darkening skies convinced them to rejoin us in town.   Some sprinkles began and we decided it was a good time for lunch.  But the barrage waited us out, and dumped on us as we left the lakeside restaurant, drenching us in our ride back up the hill to our room.

Friday arrived dry and promising, so after a slow morning, off we went to return to Salzburg and to explore the hilltop fortress of Hohensalzburg Castle, which dates from about 1070.  We ignored the funicular, the railed tram carrying visitors to the top, and instead walked the road and long stairways upward, forever.  The fortress took us back in time and we examined almost every room and tower.






During the time we spent looking across the vista of Salzburg, we started getting silly while watching rain clouds forming in the distance.  It was time to go before we had a replay of the day before.

We hurried back down to the square amidst some sprinkles and to the shelter of the arched entrances through which horse-drawn carriages returned from their tours of the city's streets.  The horses appeared eager to be fed and to escape the rain.

On our way to the car, we stopped at a small cafe for dessert and coffee.  (I have discovered espresso!  More about that later!  Yeah, I know it's packed with caffeine . . .)

RANDOM SHOTS OF

SILLINESS IN

SALZBURG

We returned to Grundlsee for Chris and Tisha to begin their drive back into Switzerland and for us to prepare for our Saturday departure -- to return the car and board our train for our return into France, and our appointed date with Chris and Tisha in Beaune.