Isle Sur la Sorgue and Avignon

(The following is adapted from our June 15 email, so you'll recognize the details -- I'm inserting some pictures.)

With some regret mixed with excitement, we boarded another high--speed train to leave Isle sur la Sorgue for Avignon.  For you history buffs (I'm not claiming that honor), this is the location of the French Papal Palace that figured into the Great Schism, the time of two popes, before the French one relinquished the right back to Rome.  Since we just arrived and shoved our bags into a lounge at our hotel (room's not ready yet), we decided to check emails, before heading out to explore.  (Shhh- Greg's pretending to help, but he's actually napping beside me in the cafe.)

Our hotel in Avignon, a former cardinal's mansion

The hotel walled courtyard

A bit more about our time in France:  the work-days, and life in general, here are far more leisurely than in the US:  shops open around 10 am, then close for lunch from 12:30 to 2, and then close for the day at about 6.  Typically, the French arrive at the restaurants and cafes between 8 or 8:30 and remain for at least 2 hours, often longer.  Most of the French are slender and fit, no matter their age;  for they spend so much time out of doors, walking, visiting parks, or cafe-gazing.

I have wanted to capture the lovely elderly, as they take their evening stroll, but I don't wish to intrude.

Resting from her walk

What I do wish is to emulate them!  While here, we aren't watching tv, or carrying our cell phones, and it feels tres bon!

Provence is known for its flowers, especially lavender;  when we're brushing by lavender gardens (seems they're everywhere), I'll pick off a few blooms and tuck them into my pocket;  each time I want the scent, I reach inside and voila!  And at night; I'll set the blooms on my nightstand and inhale their fragrance as I sleep.

Fields of lavender in Avignon

After joining the French in the daily walks, we have no problem of drifting off to sleep, with barely the thought of our next day.

As I mentioned in our last email, Isle sur la Sorgue (Island of the Sorgue) is a water paradise.  On one of our walks along the river, we stopped at a sandy park to watch six gentlemen in a very serious game of boule.  To our back was flowing the river, a great waterwheel gently turning, and two boys of about 10, daring each other to jump into the chilly pool below the turning giant.  And being boys of about 10, they jumped -- again and again.   Brrrr!

Children at play

Men at play  (boule)

The parks beside the streams have steps, some quite wide, that descend into the water.  Families will use them, removing their sandals to dip their feet, and even to dip the chubby toes of their infants into the chilly water for a quick cool-down.   Of course, Greg  had to take his dip, shoes and all.  Sheesh.

Last evening, preparing to leave on our stroll from the hotel to our restaurant, we met a nice couple who had arrived 2 hours prior, having ridden their bicycles 47 kilometers from Avignon.  Greg could immediately recognize their Norwegian accent, since he had worked for a Norwegian company, and traveled there often.

(The following description of our time in Avignon is from our June 24 email.  I'm inserting some pictures.)

Church of St. Pierre

Exploring Avignon (as elsewhere) was an opportunity to savor the art, architecture, and history of centuries, and often, just around the corner.   Down 2 short backstreets from our hotel was the Church of St. Pierre, whose massive chestnut handcarved doors dated from the 1500s.

Around the corner and over 2 more short streets was a centuries-old synagogue.  And a few short blocks later, we went through the gardens surrounding the Papal palace, and peered over stone walls to a vineyard being tended on the bank below us, sloping down to the Rhone River;  the wine of this region is named Cotes (Hills) du Rhone, and the pope's palace (though the pope returned to Rome long ago) still sells its own label.

Papal Vineyards on the Cotes du Rhone

Across the river from us, still standing guard to protect France's border from the Catholic encroachers, stands the 1307 tower of Philip The Fair.  We strolled the Papal gardens along finely graveled paths, around waterfalls, and fountains, and passed a pleasant little open-air cafe beside a large pool.  Walking back nearer the perimeter walls overlooking the Papal Square, we heard the music of accordians drifting up (how atmospheric).

Papal Palace (picture taken from the square)

Dignitaries in the Papal Palace

We explored the palace, a gothic structure dating from about 1309, with its massive stone walls, with its echoing banquet and reception rooms, often intricately tiled floors, and the pope's private chambers, whose walls still have the lush paintings of hunting scenes.  We carried a headset, and listened to the descriptions of the rooms, their functions, and some of the original furnishings, now missing.  One room within the private area reveals what once were secret vaults for the gold and other church treasures, slabs of cut stone pushed aside to reveal small rooms under the pope's floor.

Within the Papal Gardens

Walking into another neighborhood, we visited, on a much smaller scale, an art museum in an artist couple's pleasant residence--this gave us a chance to see photography, sculptures, antiques, and paintings in an atmosphere of private rooms.  We saw small collections of Degas, Cezanne, Van Gogh, and Picasso, among others.

So, Greg and I are feeling quite French, merci beaucoup, and eager to explore this city for 2 days;  then we'll be off for Austria, with a week in Grundlsee, and adventures out into Salzburg and Bavaria;  Chris and Tisha will join us there, before we return to France, this time to the Burgundy region for 2 days.  Have I mentioned that I'm enjoying the French wine?  Ooh la la!  (glad I'm walking)

Until next time, au revoir!