In Provence: Arles and Isle Sur la Sorgue

Rooftops of Arles and the Rhone River

This is another email, sent June 14, 2011.  I've made a very few cosmetic changes to it, and I've added some pictures.

After 3 nights in Nice, we boarded a high speed train for Arles, leaving the Riviera, moving deeply into Provence.  I tingle at the awareness of that:  I've been to Paris three times over the years, and have never known the pleasures of the south of France.  Provence:  the word itself feels magical.

At Nice's train station we met an attractive young couple from the states who were on a 2-month trip, staying primarily in hostels;  but for their next journey, they were joining a friend in an Italian castle -- the friend was renting it!  The couple told us that they had met in college -- Penn State -- she was from Bethel Park, PA, and he was from the US Virgin Islands,  on the island of St. John, where his parents own and run a restaurant/bar called Skinny Legs (at which point, he lifted his cargo shorts to demonstrate that he carried the family trait).

Our Arles hotel - lighted sign

Our 2nd home, in Arles, was in a jewel of a hotel in an ancient building.  Our room's shuttered windows looked out to a two-tiered dining terrace, our large window had ceiling to floor orange-red drapes with bright yellow flowers;  an antique armoire held our clothes; and our en suite bath was in a tower like room.  (We took plenty of pictures.)

Our room overlooks the dining terrace

Part of our hotel's breakfast terrace

 The dining terrace was enclosed by vine-covered stone walls, and flowers abounded in urns and pots.  The tables were covered in pastel green and white, centered with still more pots of flowers, and our breakfast dishes were medium emerald.  Glory be!  We're living in a French dream!

Arles is  known for its Roman ruins:  On Saturday we climbed to the top of a tower in a Roman Arena that entertained the citizens before Jesus was born;  and that night, we dined in a restaurant whose owners practically ran to & from the kitchen to proudly present our courses with "Voila!  Bon appetit!"  That's it -- I'm staying here (please send money).

Roman Amphitheatre where gladiatorial games took place

                     (note the modern-day gladiator looking nonchalant)

Our favorite restaurant in Arles

On Sunday, we day-tripped to Les Baux, the site of an ancient hilltop Chateau.

Armour and ancient weapons were demonstrated

The approach through town to the Chateau

A depiction of the chapel

The chapel today

van Gogh's Cafe La Nuit -- on the Roman Square

Vincent van Gogh (with one ear)

Arles was home to Vincent van Gogh during some of his most productive years, because, as he has been quoted, the light there was wonderful.  A restaurant which is the subject of one of his paintings is still operating.  Memorials and markers indicating several of the locations of his subjects are scattered through town.






















After three nights in Arles, we took another train -- this time for Isle Sur Le Sorgue, a Provencial village surrounded by, and intersected with, rivers, streams, waterfalls, fountains, and turning moss-covered waterwheels that long ago powered their grain mills.

Beautiful scenery around every corner

We spotted this home's patio on one of our walks

These wheels are still turning

Greg is beside one of those streams, reading in a park with an enormous central fountain.  I'm off to join him.  Love to you.  Take care, and we'll see you soon.